THERE'S GOLD IN THEM THAR' JEANS!
When news of the California Gold Rush reached Loeb "Levi" Strauss
he wisely deduced that a fortune could be made by expanding his
family dry good business, selling to cash-rich, merchandise-starved
miners. In 1853, at age 24, Levi opened up his first waterfront
store at 90 Sacramento Street, San Francisco. Business flourished.
Commonly repeated stories about young Strauss fashioning durable
pants for miners out of overstocked canvas are probably based on
myth.
According to a press release, written by historian Lynn Downey on
the Levi Strauss Company web page, the real story is quite simple.
One of Strauss's customers was a Reno, Nevada tailor named Jacob
Davis. Among Jacob's customers was a prospector named Alkali Ike
who kept ripping the pockets of his pants, presumably from stuffing
them with heavy gold nuggets. To strengthen his customer's trousers,
Jacob utilized tough cotton twill and put metal rivets at points
of strain: pocket corners, the crotch, etc.
The pants proved so exemplary, Jacob decided to take out a patent
on the process. However, he had trouble scraping together
the $68 he needed to file the papers. Jacob wrote to Levi
to suggest that the two men hold the patent together. Levi, being
an astute businessman, saw the potential for this new product, and
agreed to the proposal. The two men received a patent on May 20,
1873. Within a very short time, all types of working men were buying
up the innovative new clothing, and spreading the word.
Today's lesson is don't throw away that old pair of jeans in your
attic. Beginning in the 1970's historic and popular interest gained
considerable ground on artist merit concerning antiques. Today,
a well-preserved, properly marketed 19th century pair of Levi's
might fetch $50,000-$100,000. A 1940's Lee "Cowboy" brand
denim jacket will bring approximately $6,000. A Levi jacket of the
same period will fetch $5,000. A pair of never-washed 1930's Levi
jeans complete with a "buckleback" is worth around $2,000. A mint
pair of vintage "Blue Bell" Wranglers made late as the 1960's is
worth around $100.
If you think these prices seem crazy, keep in mind that people buy
what they like, and worldwide people covet articles closely associated
with America and her cowboys. Toward getting lucky at your next
church bazaar, here's a brief chronology on the subject helpful
in dating old jeans.
1873: Featuring three pockets, no belt loops-only suspender buttons
and a waist-cinching buckle on the back, dark blue stiff loose-fitting
riveted denim "waist overalls" are introduced in California selling
for 22 cents each.
1886: To the rear of the "501" waistband Strauss adds a leather
(or oilcloth) rear patch featuring a company publicity stunt of
"two hitched horses" unable to pull his waist overalls apart.
1890: A small forth pocket above the front pocket is added to accommodate
coins and pocket watches.
1902: Levis Strauss dies, leaving business to nephews.
1905: A fifth "wallet" pocket is added.
1906: Earthquake and fire destroys Levis Strauss headquarters and
manufacturing centers. A new factory is quickly constructed.
1913: Kansas entrepreneur, H.D. Lee (Founder of Lee Jeans) introduces
a one-piece work-wear garment called the Union-All.
1922: Belt loops added, eventually replacing suspender buttons.
1924: 13 ounce denim Lee Rider jeans are introduced. Levi's were
10 oz. at time
1926: The zipper is introduced to blue jeans by Lee.
1936: Red LEVI'S tab added to back pocket.
1930's: Blue Bell Globe (ancestor of Wrangler) emerges from depression
as major blue jeans manufacturer. Singing cowboys glamorize denim
image.
1940's: War rationing reduces production. Heat conducting crotch
rivets are removed after Levi CEO Walter Haas suffers embarrassing
campfire burn. Exposed rear pocket rivets are covered with fabric
layer after numerous complaints from cowboys of scared saddles and
teachers from scratched school chairs.
1950's: Stars like James Dean, Marilyn Monroe and Marlon Brando
endorse jeans image.
Mid-60's: Bell bottoms introduced.
1971: Levis replaces capital "E" with little "e" on their red tab.
70's & 80's: Blue jeans black-market and collecting markets emerge
worldwide, especially strong in Japan.
1990's: Huge oversized jeans rise and fall in fashion. New
industry leaders emerge.
by
AntiqueTalk.com
Reprinted with permission
Copyright by Wayne Mattox ©
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